The Royal Tailor review [LKFF 2015]: “A wonderfully satisfying success.”

The Royal Tailor review: The performances really break free from their stunning costumes.

In a world where CGI monsters and aliens rule Hollywood, wouldn’t it be refreshing to see a film that places importance on some other aspect of filmmaking? That’s exactly what you get from The Royal Tailor a film that reportedly spent 60% of its budget on costumes and sets. It’s no surprise either, with one character wearing over 30 costumes, each one beautifully embroidered. The costumes would be enough to recommend this film alone, but this is also a phenomenally well rounded blockbuster that intricately incorporates comedy, drama, and raw emotion too.

Dol Seok (Han Suk Kyu) is the royal tailor. A tailor appointed to produce traditional Korean dress (Hanbok) to only the king and the queen, while his designs are also appointed to the rest of the court via his hardworking apprentices. During a political changeover where the king’s brother (Yoo Yeon Seok) has taken the throne along with the previous king’s rumoured virgin wife (Park Shin Hye), the queen risks being dethroned due to the lack of an heir, and other political figures wishing for a new queen for the new king. After Dol Seok refuses to amend a damaged robe for the king, claiming it impossible, a member of the court, Pan Soo (Ma Deong Seok) recommends radical designer Kong Jin (Ko Soo), who isn’t afraid to use brighter colours, slimmer fitting designs, and showing off a bit more skin.

Kong Jin’s work impresses the queen, and soon a rivalry develops between these two very different designers. Kong Jin may be a genius, but he is all about the women and the money, finding it offensive that the king pays in used socks. Meanwhile Dol Seok has climbed the ladder from being an orphan, and wants nothing more than to shed his peasant status and become part of nobility. As the rivalry grows, so does a friendship, as each can appreciate the work the other does. There is a wonderful fantasy segment in which the designers imagine their dream robes, and the chemistry between Han and Ko is simply perfect.

The film jumps from moments of fantastic light comedy to episodes of tragic brilliance. Upon imagining the first robe he will design for a man, Kong Jin sees Pan Soo in a range of ridiculously inappropriate garments, and when Pan Soo finally has his stunning new hanbok he struts around in slow motion like something out of a cheesy Lynx commercial. It takes a lot of confidence to add such contemporary humour into a period drama, but director Lee Won Suk does it very well. It’s greatly surprising that this is only his second feature as it wreaks of talent and knowing exactly what to do and how to handle the tone. The film becomes darker and more tragic as it progresses, as jealousy and betrayal soon take centre stage. Han is spectacular at grabbing empathy for his protagonist, and his gradual drift into the role of an antagonist is sad and poignant.

The performances really break free from their stunning costumes here, with the power struggle between the two leads being a joy to watch, while there are also numerous subplots that add to the meat of the main tale, rather than distract or make the film too bloated. Whether it’s the politics surrounding the king, or the other battle of characters between the queen and the royal concubine Soui (Lee Yoo Bi), the film is constantly on the move without leaving you out of breath.

The real stars are those glorious costumes though. They are the source of great comedy, as noblemen clumsily deal with their impracticality, and are shown in numerous design porn moments where extreme close-ups of sewing and embroidery are rendered in satisfying slow motion. The amount of detail is absurd, and not just in the fashionable pieces, but also in what the commoners wear. Funny, exciting, and thrilling at times, The Royal Tailor treats us to an epic period piece, as well as a stunning character driven story where role reversals and changing allegiances make for a complex and satisfying watch. A wonderfully satisfying success.

The Royal Tailor review by Luke Ryan Baldock, November, 2015.

The ROyal Tailor screened at the London Korean Film Festival 2015 as part of their Hits of 2014/15 strand.